Patagonia - Part 5: Esquel, Bariloche, Ecolodge La Frontera & Temuco

Esquel, Chubut, Argentina We spend the morning riding through purple mountains majesty, through thick forests reaching for the sky until they get to the treeline and can no longer grow, leaving jagged barren rock to touch it instead. By midmorning, we turn to follow the Futaleufú River and are back on the gravel. We meet a hitchhiker from Colorado who’s down here as a river guide. This area is known for its whitewater and as we cross bridges we peer down at emerald green rapids. Going up a steep hill, Hans gets caught in deep gravel and topples over. Joe has an incident in the same place. Fellow travelers help upright the bikes and we continue on to the small town of Futaleufú for lunch and

Patagonia - Part 4: Puyuhuapi

Puyuhuapi, Aysén, Chile As much as I might have enjoyed a second day lounging on the shores of Lago Gral Carrera, it feels good being back on the Guanacos. We leave the lake and, as we always do, stretch out on the road, each of us riding our own ride, lost in our own thoughts. The sun is bright and strong and already warming up the day. One by one we stop at the gas station in Puerto Rio Tranquilo. There’s a line out to the street and down the block but those that arrive later join up with those already in the queue. The line of waiting cars is none too happy about this and let us know with honks, glares, and what I imagine are some choice words in Spanish. Eduardo, not wanting to incite a

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