Patagonia - Part 3: Perito Moreno Glacier, Estancia Santa Thelma & Puerto Guadal

Perito Moreno Glacier In the morning, we spend a half-hour getting gas. It’s not uncommon to find long lines at gas stations in Patagonia; sometimes the station’s tanks are empty and people have to wait for gas to be delivered. We’re lucky this morning, it’s just a line. Bikes topped off, we leave El Calafate and ride alongside the deep turquoise Lago Argentino, a long, thin, glacier-fed lake that is so vivid it looks like someone took a photo and turned the saturation up to 11. The source of the water, the Perito Moreno Glacier, is our day trip. The landscape is barren and cold, and I wait impatiently for the morning sun to peak over the distant hills and warm the land. I brought some colde

Patagonia - Part 2: Puerto Natales, Parque Nacional Torres del Paine & El Calafate

Puerto Natales, Última Esperanza, Chile ​The sky spits at us in fits and starts as we leave Porvenir but not enough to tamp down the blinding dust that makes passing all but impossible. We pick our spots though and manage to work our way around the smattering of cars and construction vehicles on the gravel road. We skirt alongside the Strait of Magellan as sheep and guanaco graze on the scrubby roadside brush. The sheep scurry off at the first sound of the bikes, but the guanacos wait longer before jumping over low fences to safety, their heads remaining level as their long necks and bodies bound beneath them. By the time we catch the ferry across the Strait of Magellan, the clouds clear to

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