

Patagonia - Part 3: Perito Moreno Glacier, Estancia Santa Thelma & Puerto Guadal
Perito Moreno Glacier In the morning, we spend a half-hour getting gas. It’s not uncommon to find long lines at gas stations in Patagonia; sometimes the station’s tanks are empty and people have to wait for gas to be delivered. We’re lucky this morning, it’s just a line. Bikes topped off, we leave El Calafate and ride alongside the deep turquoise Lago Argentino, a long, thin, glacier-fed lake that is so vivid it looks like someone took a photo and turned the saturation up to

Patagonia - Part 2: Puerto Natales, Parque Nacional Torres del Paine & El Calafate
Puerto Natales, Última Esperanza, Chile ​The sky spits at us in fits and starts as we leave Porvenir but not enough to tamp down the blinding dust that makes passing all but impossible. We pick our spots though and manage to work our way around the smattering of cars and construction vehicles on the gravel road. We skirt alongside the Strait of Magellan as sheep and guanaco graze on the scrubby roadside brush. The sheep scurry off at the first sound of the bikes, but the guan